Ireland & Northern Ireland/UK
Climbing on Gola Island and Fairhead Climbing Meet
Our climbing road trip through the north of Ireland to the Fairhead Climbing Meet takes us through large parts of both the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland.
Nick Simons and I came up with the idea of attending the annual Fairhead Climbing Meet on the McBride family farm in County Antrim, Northern Ireland. To make our week-long stay on the island even more varied, we turned the meet into a climbing road trip and visited several fantastic climbing areas.
As a warm-up – before tackling the two planned highlights of Gola Island and Fairhead – we spent the first few days visiting various climbing areas along Ireland‘s east coast. We kicked off our trip in Glendalough in the Wicklow Mountains (Sléibhte Chill Mhantáin), located half an hour south of Dublin. Here, the climbing takes place on fantastically rough granite, offering views of the Wicklow mountain range and the Glendalough Upper Lake. Glendalough is famous for its round tower and St. Kevin’s Church, it is situated in a classic glacial U-shaped trough valley – a landform frequently found across the island.
We spent the following days in the Mourne Mountains (Na Beanna Boirche), Northern Ireland’s highest mountain range. This is an extensive mountain area comprising 26 climbing sites, where we climbed at Pigeon Rock and Lower Cove.
After that, we set off on a tour across the island. We pass through lush green countryside and scattered villages dotted with remote farms. The landscape is constantly dominated by sheep grazing on the lush, evergreen slopes. During our week-long trip, we cross back and forth several times between the Republic of Ireland and the British Northern Ireland – which means constantly switching from Euro to British Pounds Sterling, metric to imperial units, and kilometres to miles. Only one thing remains constant: driving on the left.
Gola Island (Oileán Ghabhla), County Donegal/Ireland
Finally, we reach the small harbour at Machaire Gathlán Pier on Magheragallan Beach, where, as previously arranged, a ferry picks us up and takes us to the deserted Gola Island in the Atlantic. We are the only people on the island – apart from around 100 relaxed sheep, numerous excited oystercatchers flying low and quite a few cormorants nesting in the cliffs. We pitch our tent on an idyllic beach and explore the many cliffs of the two kilometres wide island. The climbing ethic is, as everywhere on the main island, traditionally British. There are no bolts. Using a static rope, we reach the low-lying ledges and starting points of the routes, depending on the tides and water level. The climbing here is fantastic and, after a short while, the island’s tranquillity settles into our rhythm. We literally feel as though we’re at the end of the world.
Fairhead Climbing Meet, Antrim/Northern Ireland
After some fantastic days of climbing on Gola Island, we continue across the main island of Ireland to its north-eastern tip, Ballycastle. Here, on the Fairheads cliffs, lies the McBride family’s farm. Together with the local Dal Riada Climbing Club, the family organises the annual Fairhead Climbing Meet. The four-days trad climbing gathering is extremely well organised. Most of the participants come from Ireland and the UK.
Things get serious on the cliffs, which reach heights of up to 100 metres. Here we climb on beautiful dolerite, a rough basalt rock with excellent friction. Crack climbing in all its forms is the predominant style, and it’s impressive to see the sheer motivation with which everyone works their way through the cracks.
In the evenings, there are usually 1–2 talks by renowned climbers in one of the barns cleared out for the event. A hearty barbecue and local beer in an authentic farm setting create a relaxed atmosphere and make for good conversation. Accommodation is provided at the farm’s own campsite. All in all, an excellent climbing event in typical Irish weather and a unique location, on an impressive rock face directly above the sea.
Atmosphere of an evening lecture in the farm‘s barn.
Facts
Let’s see where it is:
Our selection of crags:
» Wicklow Mountains (Sléibhte Chill Mhantáin): Glendalough
» Mountains of Mourne (Na Beanna Boirche): Main Face/Pigeon Rock & Third Corner/Lower Cove
» Gola Island (Oileán Ghabhla): Binn a rSeabhain NE Wall, Island Zawn, Twin Cave, Main Wall
» Fairhead (County Antrim): Rathin Wall & The Prow
Route equipment:
On Ireland, climbing follows the British Trad standard, and all climbing areas are bolt-free. All intermediate anchors, belay stations on multi-pitch routes, rope anchors and abseil points must be set up by the climber using slings, nuts and cams. It is essential to have the necessary expertise to assess the safety of these anchors.
Caution:
It is mandatory to bring sufficient food and water for a visit on Gola Island, as there is no infrastructure or clean drinking water.
Climbing gear:
50-100 m static rope for rappel, 50-60 m half ropes,
Further information:
» Irish Climbing Database (wiki.climbing.ie)
» Iain Miller/Unique Ascent, Donegal Climbing Guidebooks (www.uniqueascent.ie)
» Dal Riada Climbing Club (www.dalriadaclimbingclub.ie)
» Mountaineering Ireland (www.mountaineering.ie)
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