Dolomites, Italy

Corso Dolomiti

Dolomites cremé de la cremé.

It soon became clear: We had the idea to visit in one week as many of the best areas as possible and to climb the hardest routes there.

Because it was the beginning of March, and the sun already has a lot of power to damage the south-facing ice falls, we concentrated on the north faces. And we weren’t disappointed. The conditions were perfect and before we froze in the shade of the north faces, we could have catched some sun light at the approach to the ice falls.

The two top spots Vallunga (with its multitude of classics as well as the Test Piece Illuminati) and the hidden Val Travenanzes in the shade of Tofane are definitely the most attractive ice climbing spots which the eastern Alps has to offer.

Facts

Let’s see where it is:

Our route highlights:

Travenanzes valley (Ampezzo Dolomites):
» Pilone Centrale (EIII/WI5+/6, 140 m, 4 pitches)
» Candela di Supermario (EIII/WI5+, 40 m, 1 pitch)

Vallelunga (Val Gardena):
» Jumbo Jet (EIV/WI5+, 105 m, 4 pitches)

Serrai di Sottoguda (Marmolada):
» La spade nella roccia (EI/WI5, 45 m, 1 pitch)

Val Badia (Kolfuschg):
» Kerze (EII/WI5, 90 m, 3 pitches)
» Pisciadu (EII/WI4, 105 m, 3 pitches)

Altpragser valley (Rosslahne):
» Säule (EII/WI5+, 50 m, 1 pitch)
» Rosslahne klassisch (EII/WI5, 50 m, 1 pitch)

Landro (Dobbiaco):
» Sunntaplotz (EI/WI4, 70 m, 2 pitches)

Culinary recommendation:

Pizza Energy at the Ristorante Pizzeria Rino in Selva/Wolkenstein (Pizza with rocket, pineapple, pesto, pine nuts and slices of parmesan)

Further information:

» Alpine Ice Topo guide from Mario Sertori (www.versantesud.it …)

» South Tyrol/Dolomites Topo guide from Konrad Auer (www.panico.de)