Ethics and visions in mountain sports
Games Climbers Play
An climbing essay (published in 1967) written by alpinist Lito Tejada-Flores. He attempted to define climbing in terms of a series of games with differing rules; this was to avoid the ever-looming question of what climbing is and, more divisively, what it is not. Under his system, siege-style expeditions and road-side sport climbing coexist happily, each following their own set of restrictions. The genius of this, and the reason it was cited so heavily in the anthology of climbing philosophy, was that it is systematic. It accounted for the full diversity of climbing without jettisoning all points of comparison.
In the second part Beyond Climbing Games – Alpinism As Humanism (published in 1990), Lito Tejada-Flores relfects his thoughts on Games Climbers Play.
Download Part I: Games Climbers Play (PDF: 2761 KB)
The Innocent, the Ignorant and the Insecure
With “The Innocent” Jim Bridwell hoped to add further clarity to the new Yosemite-scale and provide guidance to get everyone more or less rating routes using the same objective criteria – a near impossibility, as we now know. Published in the 1973 edition of Ascent.
Download (PDF: 6213 KB)
The six climbing rules by Paul Preuß from 1912 (German language)
Paul Preuß brought his high ethical claims to paper and wrote six climbing principles that reveal a very modern concept.
Download (PDF: 286 KB)
The Chouinard Catalog from 1972
The legendary Chouinard catalog from 1972 with the brilliant article “The Whole Natural Art of Protection” by Doug Robinson about visionary climbing, the awareness of nature and the beauty of rock.
Certainly indicative by that time – today still amazingly contemporary!
Download (PDF: 20099 KB)
Tyrolean declaration from 2002 (German language)
The Tyrolean Declaration on Best Practice in Mountain Sports, adopted by the Kongress Future of Mountain Sports, Innsbruck.
Download (PDF: 245 KB)
UIAA Ethical Code for Expeditions from 1987
The Ethical Code – Principles and Practice for Expeditions, adopted by the UIAA Advisory Committee & General Assembly in Marrakesh.
Download (PDF: 95 KB)
Kathmandu Declaration from 1982
The Kathmandu Declaration on Mountain Activities, adopted by the UIAA Advisory Committee.
Download (PDF: 71 KB)
bergundsteigen in conversation with Reinhold Messner (German language)
Very interesting interview from the bergundsteigen-issue 2/2013 about the current debates on route renovations, bolted Plaisier climbing and alpine tourism.
Download (PDF: 1453 KB)
Thoughts on climbing
What’s so special at climbing and what makes this sport so attractive? About risk, fear and the individual climbing style.
Download (PDF: 937 KB)