Palatinate forest, Germany

Napoleon sends his regards

The classical routes.

A classical climbing way requires an interpretation like an artwork and lives because of its adventures and occurrences, which are connected to the climbing route. This makes it so unique.

It’s custom and practice for years, that I’m out in the nature at my birthday. I spend this special time in beautiful climbing areas where I enjoy climbing by heart. Also this time, when we drove to the Palatinate forest.

We had the idea of climbing long well-known classical towers and needles in the Dahner rockland for a whole weekend. Within these eroded rock formations, we climbed the same routes as the conquerors at those times. Here you’ll find narrow cracks for wedging or close chimneys, corners, handy honeycomb walls or small outstanding pebbles and also friction slabs. Also for climbers from Palatinate – the routes are often very meagerly secured, which is justified in the historical development of the Palatinate climbing. A lot of creativity is needed in order to use nuts and cams properly.

Depending upon desire and mood, the whole range of different climbing techniques is demanded in this grippy sandstone. A great thing, because this kind of climbing guarantees super adventure and many hours in a beautiful sun flooded landscape at varied rock. There isn’thing more beautiful on the own birthday than walking through the woods with my girlfriend, climbing crazy routes and spending the time together. To me that’s a highlight, for which I’m looking forward the whole year.

In the evening we head to the Bärenbrunnerhof to enjoy a steaming plate of Schupfnudels. A tasty beer gives us the necessary sleepyness, than we sneak back to our cosy sleeping bags. A smashing ending of a perfect climbing day.

Facts

Let’s see where it is:

Ascent:

May 13th – 15th, 2006, together with Kirsten Steimel

Starting point:

Bärenbrunnerhof at Schindhard, Palatinate forest, Germany

Route equipment:

Belays and rappel anchors are mostly protected with heavy bolts, you find a few bolts in every pitch, mobile devices are necessary for further protection.

Caution:

Chalk only from UIAA 7. Watch out after heavy rain, because sandstone might lose its firmness – Handholds, footholds and placements can become very fragile. Numerous accidents happened already!

Climbing gear:

60-70 m single rope, 1 set of Stoppers, 1 set of C4-Camalots, slings

Culinary recommendation:

Seasonal specialties are delicious game dish on chanterelles, Alsatian tart, and chestnut creme soup with pork-stomach in fall.
My favorite Restaurants:

» Wasgauperle in Dahn (www.wasgauperle.de)

» Zur alten Gerberei in Annweiler (www.gerberei.de)

» Route database Southern Palatinate (tourendatenbank.xoxs.de)

» Association of climbers from Palatinate (www.pfaelzer-kletterer.de)

» Bärenbrunnerhof – climbers meeting point, Pub, climbing shop and campground (www.baerenbrunnerhof.de)

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