Squamish, B.C. Canada

A magical place for all crack specialists

Traditional climbing is a real art. You can’t get a better idea of what that means than in Squamish – Canada’s first-class trad climbing area on the Stawamus Chief.


Let’s see where it is:

Getting there:

Squamish is located on the Howe Sound, about 70 km north of Vancouver. The area can be reached by car or bus in approximately one hour from Vancouver/Lions Gate Bridge via Sea-to-Sky Highway 99 (Exit: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park).

Starting point:

Starting point for all routes is the international climber meeting place at the campground in the Stawamus Chief Provincial Park.

Our route highlights:

Stawamus Chief First Peak:
» Squamish Buttress (5.10c)
» Calculus Crack Direct (5.9), North Apron
» Karen´s Math (5.10a), North Apron
» Memorial Crack (5.9), North Apron
» Long Time No See (5.9), North Apron
» Rambles (5.10a), Lower Apron
» Diedre (5.8), South Apron
» Boomstick Crack (5.7), Upper South Apron
» Raven’s Castle: Talking Crack (5.7)

Stawamus Chief Second Peak:
» Ultimate Everything (5.10b), Echolon Wall

Shannon Falls:
» Skywalker with Flume variant (5.10a)


The three summits of Stawamus Chief can be reached by climbing about 20 rope lengths (depending on the combination of routes).

Route equipment:

Cracks can be protected outstandingly with Cams and Stoppers, compact slabs are usually drilled, belays have to be set up by yourself occasionally.

Climbing gear:

50 m double rope, 1 set C4-Camalots up to #4, 1 set Link Cams, 1 full set of Stoppers, slings


Bears are known not to be as violent here as in Yosemite. Nevertheless you should stow your food in the car or in one of the Bear Lockers at the campground.

» Squamish Climbing Forum (www.squamishclimbing.com)

» Regional weather report with smoke prediction (weather.gc.ca …)


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First ascent on
Monarch Mountain