Mont Blanc Range, Italy
Pointe Louis Amédée, 4460 m
A few impressions of our successful first ascent of the new route
“Perfect Storm” on the massive Miage flank of Mont Blanc.
Perfect Storm leads in a direct line through the North-West Face, over the previously unclimbed main pillar to the summit of Pointe Louis Amédée. From there we climbed the Brouillard Ridge over Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (4748 m) to the Mont Blanc (4810 m). Over the Traversée Royale with the peaks Dôme du Goûter (4304 m), Aiguille de Bionnassay (4052 m) and the three Dômes de Miage peaks (3672 m, 3673 m, 3564 m) we extended the tour to Les Contamines to a total of eight days.
Let’s see where it is:
12 – 13 August 2018, together with Simon Richardson (Scotland)
This first ascent was suggested for the Piolet d’Or 2019.
700 m to the summit of Pointe Louis Amédée (4460 m), from where we climbed the Brouillard Ridge to Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (4748 m) and Mont Blanc (4810 m).
ED1, French 6a+ (we have climbed the route in alpine style)
Pointe Louis Amédée is Italy’s highest mountain, which is entirely located on Italian territory. It is part of the Brouillard Ridge. The North-West Face lies on the massive Miage flank of Mont Blanc – an area known as the “Himalayas of the Alps”. The rock on the first 500 m consists of solid granite, the climbing is characterized by many cracks and slabs with logical lines. In the upper part the ambience changes to schist. The route has been climbed in alpine style and leads over the summit of Mont Blanc, a retreat via Capanna Quintino Sella ai Rochers is completely unsuitable.
Visailli, Val Véni
In contrast to the French side, the Italian side of Mont Blanc does not offer any ascent aids such as cogwheel or cable cars. All ascents start from the valley. The complicated access to the idyllically situated Bivouac hut Quintino Sella (3396 m), the oldest refuge on the southern side of Mont Blanc, takes about eight hours. From there it takes another two hours to the beginning of the climb.
50 m double rope, 1 set Link Cams, C4-Camalot #3, 1 set of Stoppers, slings.